Then get a small carbide burr preferably with about a 3 - 4 in shank so you can see without the grinder in the way. You can get a 90 degree die grinder pritty cheap at harbor freight for $20 or so. Those I grind out completly and retap with a heli coil. On small bolts 1/4 in and smaller this ussually can not be done very easy. Grind out the center and work your way out untill you see the thread lines and if your good you can pull the threads out like a spring. The way I would do it and have done it many times is to use a die grinder with a 1/8 dia. You must get a center hole in the bolt for it to work very well. It only works when a bolt or tap is broken in a no ferous metal like aluminum and brass. It will eat the broken bolt and easy out. It is a chemical compound that is diluted with warm water. I am a turbine millwright and have removed many broken bolts in everything from out board engines to steam turbines. Is there any kind of EDM system that can be done on site for something like this? I haven't come accross any.Īm I missing anything? does anyone have amazing success stories in a situation like this that they want to share? should I just quit fucking around before I damage my engine? Normally this would be an EDM job, but I can't think of a way to do that without taking the engine apart (not gonna happen). Here are my options as I see 'em:ġ: weld on a nut to what's left of the bolt, have a go with the wrenchĢ: Drill out the bolt, helicoil the case threads and hope it's strong enough for crash barsġ: Use a diamond drill bit to slowly blast through the tool steel of the extractorĢ: use a diamond dremel bit or a carbide burr to carve around the edges of the extractor threads until it loosens up inside the bolt, then pull it out somehowģ: use a torch to heat up the bolt and extractor to remove the temper, then drill away (kinda nervous about taking a torch to the engine.)Ĥ: once the extractor is out, one way or another, drill the bolt out and helicoil So now I have a bolt broken off flush in the engine case with a sprial extractor tip embedded in it below the edge of the case, and a second bolt with a half inch left sticking out of the case with two flats filed into it. Next I tried liberal amounts of profanity, but that didn't work either low and behold, in spite of the same lube procedure, it snaps almost instantly before the bolt starts to budge. The flats I filed out on the first bolt brought the edges too close in to drill the hole for the spiral extractor, so rather than cut it down and have two bolts cut off flush, I drilled the second one and applied the extractor. Second step, busted out the easy-out kit. I filed two flat edges in the long one, lubed it up with liquid wrench for three straight days then clamped it as tight as possible with vice grips to turn it out, but I couldn't get it to budge - the remains of the bolt would have started to give if I'd tried it any harder. One had about 1/2" left sticking out of the case, but the other one broke off really close. couldn't even feel it happen with the second one, but oh well. They were rusted to hell and one snapped off, then the other. everything went fine until the last two bolts. Had to take off a set of crash bars to repaint 'em after a bunch of scratches started to rust.
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